Permanent hair removal at home: what works and what does not

Home hair removal devices are not a scam. They can do less than the packaging promises, though, and work differently from a professional laser. This article describes what can realistically be got out of home methods, where their limits are and when it makes sense to move to treatment at a clinic.

Can permanent hair removal be achieved at home?

The most effective home method is an IPL device — unlike traditional depilation, the result holds for weeks to months, not days. It is not permanent epilation, though: IPL disrupts the structure of the root enough for the hair to loosen and fall out, but it does not destroy the follicle completely, so a new hair grows within a few weeks. The device also has a lower output, needs around 10 repetitions and its success rate is individual.

People choose the home route mainly for privacy — undressing in front of a specialist is unpleasant for many. It is worth knowing that hundreds of clients pass through professionals’ hands and nobody judges your body, skin or hair. The second reason tends to be saving time and money, but that is rather illusory: treating the underarms at a clinic takes 10 to 15 minutes and although it costs more as a one-off, it removes a lifetime of shaving.

It pays to distinguish two terms: depilation removes only the visible part of the hair and the growth returns within days, epilation removes it with the root and the result lasts weeks to months. In detail in the article epilation vs depilation.

Which home methods exist and what can they really do?

At home you have seven basic routes. They differ in principle, in pain and above all in how often you have to repeat them.

Method	What it does to the hair	How long it lasts	Repetition
Shaving with a razor	removes the visible part	the hair grows back usually within two days	practically every two days
Depilatory cream	chemically softens and wipes off the visible part	short term, this is depilation	according to growth speed
Wax	pulls the hair out with the root	almost 14 days of smooth skin	after two to three weeks
Sugar paste	pulls the hair out with the root	roughly two weeks	after two weeks
Classic epilator	pulls the hair out with the root	long term, not permanent	after 4 to 6 weeks
Home IPL	heats melanin in the follicle with light energy	weeks to months	once a week for 4–12 weeks, then once every 1–2 months
Home laser	the same principle as a professional laser, but with low output	uncertain, individual	more often and at shorter intervals than at a clinic

Wax and sugar paste hurt — not when applied, but when pulled off. Sugar paste tends to be gentler on the skin and better tolerated than wax; their durability is similar. Both methods also strip skin cells along with the hair, and before using them you have to let the hair grow to a certain length — they cannot handle fine, short hair.

Wax, sugar paste and the classic epilator share one more catch: the newly regrowing hair tends to be weaker and thinner, and precisely for that reason it more often fails to cut through the skin and grows inwards. If you also clumsily snap the hair instead of pulling the whole of it out, the risk rises further.

How does home IPL work and how does it differ from a professional laser?

IPL and a laser aim at the same target — melanin in the hair follicles. Melanin absorbs the light, the light energy turns into heat, the hair heats up enough to be destroyed together with its root and then falls out almost painlessly. The difference lies in the light source and the output.

	Home IPL	Medical laser
Light source	broad-spectrum pulsed light source	single monochromatic light source
Average number of repetitions	around 10	5 to 8 sessions for a complete course, 4–8 weeks apart
Home use	yes	no
Who operates it	even a layperson without medical training	only a trained specialist
Success rate	individual	in up to 80 % of people the hair does not grow back in the treated area
Cost	the purchase price of the device, commonly in the thousands of crowns	the price per session according to the zone

A laser works more selectively and with a higher output, so fewer repetitions are needed for a lasting result — how much time you really gain after a completed course is described in the article how long laser hair removal lasts. What a professional course costs by zone is covered in the article about the price of laser hair removal.

Why can a home laser not do what a clinic laser does?

A home laser works on the same principle as a professional device, but you cannot put an equals sign between them — the difference is in output and in the settings available. A laser for laypeople does not allow advanced settings according to the properties of your skin and hair. The treatment may therefore have no effect and, in the worse case, risks burning the skin. Because the device is weaker, you have to use it more often and at shorter intervals, and the final result remains debatable anyway. On very light hair (blond, red, grey) home lasers are entirely ineffective.

This is well illustrated by prices. You buy a home device for thousands of crowns, while top professional lasers cost hundreds of thousands up to 1.5 million — and it is those that allow expert settings, handle fine hair and are safe even for darker skin. A professional comes with the device: they assess contraindications, adjust the output so the procedure is both comfortable and effective, and plan the intervals of the following sessions.

Who does home IPL not work for, or for whom is it risky?

Home IPL has clearly given limits. It gives good results only on dark hair on light skin — it needs the colour contrast between hair and skin.

Home IPL is not suitable:

• For a darker skin phototype and tanned skin. The light would be absorbed not only by the hair but by the skin; in extreme cases there is a risk of burns. After sunbathing, wait until the tan fades.
• For very light hair. Without sufficient contrast the device is ineffective.
• On tattoos, pigment spots, moles, freckles, permanent make-up, scars, acne, open wounds and varicose veins.
• Around the eyes and on the genitals. IPL is used mainly on the face, arms, underarms, legs and, in men, on the back and chest — there is a separate attachment for each area.
• Immediately after a chemical peel or after products with AHA acids.
• With certain chronic conditions — for example diabetes, a pacemaker, an allergic reaction to sunlight, a state after chemotherapy or metabolic disorders.

If your hair has suddenly started to grow dark and coarse, especially on the face, consult a doctor first — it may be a sign of hormonal imbalance, which no device solves.

How do you use a home device safely?

Most problems with home devices come from the wrong procedure, not from the technology itself. Before the first use, check that nothing prevents treatment in your case — contraindications are an implant or pacemaker, a chronic condition, acute dermatitis, pregnancy and breastfeeding. The skin must be shaved smooth but not epilated for at least a month, and must not be tanned, red or sunburnt.

Then follow the order of the steps and the recommended intervals:

1. First shave the area with a razor or trimmer — the skin must be smooth. Applying directly to hair irritates the skin.
2. Fit the attachment matching the area being treated.
3. Hold the head so it touches the skin closely; otherwise the device does not work properly.
4. Use the gliding mode on larger areas; on small spots simply press and release the button.
5. Use the gentle mode on the face if your model has one.
6. For the first 4 to 12 weeks apply once a week, then once every one to two months.
7. Let the device act on all spots for the same length of time — uneven application leads to overheating, redness or swelling.
8. Clean the attachment after every application.

After the treatment protect the skin from the sun and skip places with a higher risk of transmitting infection for a few days — saunas, pools and solariums.

Which areas are home devices not meant for?

Home devices are not intended for the genitals, the Brazilian area or around the eyes — and intimate areas are among the most frequently treated zones, so this is usually where the home route ends. Beware of depilatory creams too: they are not meant for the genital area, can disrupt the natural microflora and trigger inflammation.

We also do not recommend that women shave the moustache above the upper lip — the hair then gives a stronger impression. Facial skin is more sensitive than the calves and tolerates less aggressive approaches.

Do folk remedies and home depilatory pastes work?

Home mixtures of turmeric and milk, lemon with honey and oats, or baking soda and coffee belong to depilation — they work with the visible part of the hair, not with the follicle, so you cannot expect a lasting result from them. Their advantage is availability, but even natural ingredients can irritate: test the mixture on a small patch of skin first.

When does it make sense to move to a professional laser?

Moving to a clinic makes sense the moment you hit the limits of home technology — whether because of hair colour, skin phototype or a zone the home device must not be used on:

• You have light or very fine hair that IPL does not affect.
• You have a darker skin phototype or sunbathe regularly.
• You want to treat intimate areas, where home devices do not belong.
• You are dealing with ingrown hairs or ingrown beard hair that repeatedly becomes inflamed.
• After several months of regular use of a home device you see no difference.

At Laser Clinic we have two devices: the diode LightSheer DUET for darker and tanned skin and stronger hair, and the alexandrite Deka Motus AX Moveo for lighter skin and finer hair. We choose the right type according to your skin at the free consultation, and the price does not differ by laser type. Client experiences and what to realistically expect from the treatment are summed up in the article about laser hair removal reviews.

We do not recommend laser hair removal for pregnant and breastfeeding women, people with epilepsy, people who have had skin cancer, those with hyperpigmentation or a sensitive reaction to sunlight, on places with tattoos, permanent make-up, scars, acne or open wounds, and for the chronically ill — always inform the treating specialist about your condition.